As queen Mariah sings…ITS TIIIIIIIIIIIIIME. If you are coming over from the gram and you’ve followed me a while, then you will know this is where I shine. Christmas is my absolute favourite time of year and I love it so much. I do really want to visit the US and Canada at Christmas, but I will say Europe is so magical at Christmas and if you haven’t been to any markets in Europe this is a great place to start. This isn’t a long post, more of an overview if you will but it’s going to be a great starting point and then if you want to know more about each destination then I am working on a blog post for each which will have more detail. If you are a similar age to me (and 80s baby…or 90s for that matter) then you will likely remember the magazine quizzes we loved to work out basically what to wear, do, eat, see, who to date and what hobbies we should do haha then think of this as a Christmas destination quiz. There aren’t any questions actually, but I will recommend a destination based on what you like, your interests and such. Of course, as always, I haven’t been everywhere and it’s only the last couple of years I’ve been able to visit some of Europe’s excellent markets and winter gems, but I have managed to make my way round a decent chunk of countries. Enough waffling from me, let’s go……..
Where are we going?
In this mini guide we will cover the following destinations:
Germany
France
Estonia
Finland
Hungary
Austria
Sweden
Denmark
Lithuania
Switzerland
This is by no means a full guide to each but will give you an idea of where to try if you are on the fence about trying a new Christmas market.
The traditional one….Germany
I feel like I have to start with the icon. If you want the traditional, authentic Christmas market experience then I feel like Germany has to be for you. I am going to be potentially controversial and I hate being negative about a place but my experience of Germany has been that it is not my favourite place to holiday on the whole, granted in fairness I haven’t visited the castles or forests, only cities and I have only been 4 times, all on short trips but I will say despite all of this it is hands down one of the most special Christmas destinations by far and well worth your time and money. I really love Cologne for a few reasons, it has lots of markets with lots of themes, it is close to the French border so makes a perfect one to twin with Alsace, the markets are excellent and good pricing and the cathedral is stunning. What I love about Germany at Christmas time is that all of the beautiful towns and villages still make a big effort and have great markets and whilst Cologne is the only big city I’ve visited at Christmas (I am doing Munich this year but next on my list is Nuremberg and Dresden) I feel like there is somewhere for everyone and you can’t really go wrong. If Wikipedia has served me correctly then Berlin has over 80 markets so you could do a mega crawl if that is your bag you will be served well.
The fairytale one-France
Okay so to be fair Germany absolutely has storybook towns but for me Alsace has to take the baton here. If you are looking for some magical towns, stunning decorations and beautiful streets then I would recommend settling yourself in Strasbourg (They have self-titled it “The capital of Christmas” or “Capitale de Noël”) and then going to visit towns like; Colmar, Riquewihr, Eguisheim, Ribeauvillé. All of these have different markets and different styles, these towns are said to have inspired movies like Beauty and the Beast and you can totally see why. Strasbourg is pretty big and has a lot of markets but is very walkable and the markets are excellent. Obviously, it is very popular and therefore pretty busy but both times I’ve visited it was fine, I would recommend avoiding weekends if you are concerned with crowds but generally it is really manageable. I will also say in my opinion the food is excellent, as is the wine and of course hot drinks. If you visit Alsace, then you can either fly into Basel airport (which is actually in France) or you can Eurostar it and then get the regional train over to Strasbourg which is around 2 hours from Paris.
The relaxing one-Estonia
I will start this by saying the market in Tallinn is relatively small. There are pockets of markets around the Old Town, but it is not huge. If you come with that mind and aren’t expecting a huge market like those in Germany or Alsace then Tallinn is a beautiful city break with an extremely cozy feel, a high chance of snow and amazing spas to relax in at the end of a days exploring. Now I would recommend Tallinn as a general Christmas city break with the market as a bonus, but what you will find here is lots of delicious local food, drinks and beautiful handmade items. I would allow at least 2-3 days for Tallinn and it’s an excellent break to twin with Helsinki or a wider trip to Finland. You can get the ferry across which is only around 2 hours and I have been to Estonia more times than I can count, both with work and because I love it as a destination, so I have done this crossing many times. It is very easy and affordable and one year we went to Tallinn then on our last day got up early, took the Helsinki ferry, had a day there and flew back from Helsinki at night. In terms of accommodation, it is great value and abundant, you can choose a spa hotel-2 of my faves are Tallink Spa hotel (good location next to the port too) I also very much like Metropol Spa Hotel which is a great location next to the old town and Rottermanni centre….the views from the spa are beautiful as you can see part of the old town here. There are so many others though so have a look on Booking.com. In terms of standalone spas, the one I would 100% tell you to visit is the Elamus Mustamae Spa. It’s on the outskirts of Tallinn and is really big, very affordable and has an adult only plus a kid’s section. It is open late and has a lot of sauna rituals for you to try so is very traditional. It is pretty popular with locals so can get busy but definitely try and add this to your itinerary if you visit Tallinn.
The Santa one-Finland
Finland is a magical place and not just because it is the self-claimed home of the big guy…. The landscapes in Finland are next level and if you visit from November onwards you have a very good chance of snow once you hit the arctic circle. Now Helsinki is an awesome city break or twinned with Tallinn as mentioned above, you can also jump on an overnight ferry to Stockholm too, something I have also done many times and it is excellent. As far as Christmas markets go, as with Tallinn the Helsinki market isn’t huge but its very different to any other Christmas market I have been to. There are many food huts selling local Finnish Fayre and international dishes (less of the Christmas market classics) some stalls selling handmade goods and then lovely huts to enjoy your food and drink. Aside from this you should take a dip in Allas Sea Pool, they have traditional saunas, a heated pool and a baltic sea pool, all set outside and right on the harbour. Helsinki is a great city to wander, it has some lovely stores and great Christmas lights although is a little more spread out and has less small town charm than somewhere like Tallinn. Don’t miss Stockmanns the iconic department store which has the most stunning Christmas windows and if you can/have time then heading north is one of the best Christmas trips you can do. You can take an overnight train from Helsinki to Rovaniemi (the main “resort” town in Finnish Lapland. There are several others you can choose such as Ruka and Levi and I would base your choice based on what you are looking for. Rovaniemi is very touristy but if you have kids/want the Santa Magic then go here but if you are looking more at Snow Sports, outdoor landscapes etc you can try the latter. The magic doesn’t stop at Christmas though, I also visited Finnish Lapland in late January and its business as usual as the Christmas village is open year round and the snow is actually better and more consistent in Jan and Feb. I would probably avoid December because of costs and crowds but late November is a great option, we had lots of snow but it obviously isn’t guaranteed….One other thing I would say is that whilst snow isn’t a given the temperatures are pretty consistent and both times I’ve visited Finnish Lapland the temp sat at between -20 and -30 so you need to go prepared or else it can ruin your trip.
The popular one-Hungary
Now I say this with a slight eye roll….I don’t know if you can feel that through the computer. Do not get me wrong I love Budapest hence including it in this guide but when I visited the Christmas market last year I was kind of shocked it was voted the best market to visit in Europe. Not because it isn’t good, in many ways it was one of my favourites but I think if you come expecting the expansive and varied markets of Germany you would be disappointed. There are two smaller markets in Budapest, the main one in the square is filled with gorgeous stores, no mass-produced crap, largely handcrafted items, pottery, glassworks, art, jewellery, hats/mittens, vintage stores and obviously Christmas decorations so it is actually a really gorgeous market, from that point of view I can understand the hype however what was interesting to me is that it was really very small, (the market in my hometown actually has more stalls and it isn’t a huge city) the other thing a lot of people moan about is food and drink. Basically, it is very pricey, I believe due to high rents at the markets now we did eat there and the food was great to be honest, rather than lots of independent stalls it seems to be two big ones and they have loads of dishes, all the hungarian classics, Langos, big cauldrons of Goulash and lots of meats. For me, coming from the U.K. where prices at U.K. markets are actually outrageous, I didn’t find it too bad, but we also had delicious food in local restaurants for less than the price of a dish at the market so that’s worth bearing in mind. Now of course Budapest is a great city, there’s an extra, small market up at the Fishermans Bastion, the river cruises are beautiful at night and very affordable and of course there is the thermal baths so it does make for an excellent Winter break but I just like to warn folk about the fact the market isn’t so big so if you are going purely for markets, I would probably pick Germany or Alsace. The other thing you can do and what we did is team Budapest with another market, we chose Vienna, but Bratislava is also a great alternative. For both you just need to jump on a train and a couple of hours will have y0u in a new city.
The classy one-Austria
Sticking with the central Europe theme we have Austria…… Now why the classy one I hear you ask? Well, I feel like the combination of the architecture, the effort that goes into the Christmas Markets (think Germany level dedication), the beautiful baroque cafes and the gorgeous palaces. Austria has that vibe that it is just classy, I feel like German cities whilst still pretty have a bit more grit to them and whilst it doesn’t have that storybook old town other European cities may have, everything has that Austro-Hungarian Grandeur. I visited the Vienna Christmas markets last year and I have to give it to them they have an amazing selection on offer. We managed to hit up 9 different markets, some very grand, polished and beautiful, some more Indie and art based and some classics that reminded me of the German offerings. The classic Wiener Christkindlmarkt has a stunning backdrop and likely you may have seen online the “floating” heart moves across the market at 30 minute intervals (I believe). This market has a mix of different food and drink, makers and crafts and attractions for kids along with the cathedral behind having several carol singing concerts. My favourite market was at Schonbrunn Palace, the setting was gorgeous, theres lots of fun stuff for kids to do, lovely crafts and good food and it just had a really nice atmosphere. Overall Vienna is a great Market destination, my only issue and it was quite a big one was that it felt impossible to get a table anywhere. This was for both food and drink and just ended up being a bit stressful.
The city break one-Sweden
Stockholm is one of my favourite cities and a great option if you want a snowy break, of course not gauranteed but a very good chance of snow, I have visited twice in December and both very early in December……We enjoyed a good amount of snow and the decorations are stunning, there is a free Ice rink (you need to hire boots if you don’t have your own, Stockholm is a city with a great museum scene and one of my favourites is Skansen, the Swedish open-air museum which at Christmas is incredible, it has a mini Christmas markets, music and carol singers and it just feels really magical and festive. Whilst Stockholm may lack a big Christmas market there are lots of lovely things to do and enjoy around the city, I would definately reccommend with kids and if you are on a grown up trip you will find plenty of cozy coffee shops and I always say Stockholm is one of my favourite cities for shopping, especially vintage and independent stores so its great if you want to pick up some Christmas treats. As I mentioned before, it is a great trip to twin with Helsinki as you can get the overnight ferry for a great price, or you can continue onto Swedish lapland and check out destinations such as Kiruna and Abisko (you can reach via sleeper train) or head down to Malmo which is a lovely smaller city although very cold and windy (in my experience) and you can then take a 30 minute train into central Copenhagen. Another destination that has been on my radar for a couple of years is Gotenberg (I will be going in 2027) and you can head to the Liseberg theme park which hosts a beautful winter festival. So all in a great winter destination that will give you that winter magic.
The cozy one-Denmark
Okay I know you are probably thinking shes banging on about cozy for each one! I get that but allow me to introduce your main gal, the queen of cozy Copenhagen! One of my favourite cities in the whole wide world and actually one of my most visited. Now I adore Denmark, I may be a little biased as one of my besties moved there a couple of years ago so I’m lucky to spend a lot of time there as I visit her a couple of times a year but she actually lives in Jutland, closer to second city Aarhus (also a gorgeous city) which is all magical at this time of year but I’m going to zone in on Copenhagen for this one. Now there is so much in this amazing city but the stand out things for me are: The food offerings, Noma being one of the worlds best restaurants has meant they have churned out so many incredible chefs who have started their own restaurants, street food offerings and pop-ups. As an Ex-Chef myself and professional eater I can honestly say the Copenhagen food scene is unrivalled. Next which is kind of similar the bakeries and coffee shops are also top tier, the shopping especially vintage and thrifting along with many independent scandi stores well let’s just say there’s a reason the people of Copenhagen are so well dressed. Then there is the incredible Tivoli park. One of the world’s oldest theme parks and the place that is said to have inspired Walt Disney when he was creating Disneyland. Even if you aren’t into rides the lights, shows and mini-Christmas markets across the park is so worth the visit, there are so many gorgeous bars where you can sit with a warm drink and a blanket and just soak up the vibes. It only costs around £12 for entrance if you don’t want to ride anything and one of my fave spots in the whole of Europe for the Christmas period. Now there are quite a few markets dotted around the city however I will say we found them a little dissapointing last time we visited. Actually now I think of it they were still nice but I think because the city is so great and they decorate beautifully and the time previously I visited at Christmas I remember the markets seemed great but on the most recent I think we were a little underwhelmed. Again, as I mentioned with Helsinki and Tallinn I wouldn’t visit purely for the market however if you want a bit of everything, the Hygge vibes, the gorgeous lights and excellent food this is a fabulous Christmas destination.
The underrated one-Lithuania
I’ve been to Vilnius a few times and I always say this is such a lovely city….slightly lacking in terms of “big sights” but I think that adds to the appeal in some ways as its just a gorgeous city to wander, there are some really cool things to see and do and at Christmas I can honestly say it’s absolutely magical. Vilnius is actually quite famous for its wonderful Christmas tree, the market has a gorgeous Ice Rink and “Christmas train” and the market has some great stalls, a lot of the food options are quite sweet but there are some fabulous restaurants around the city to try local fayre (Etno Davras is a fave-You must try the Cepelinas, potato pancakes and buckthorn tea) and the market has some great local drinks to try, the mulled wine is delish, then you can have drinks like apple punch, cherry beer and some really interesting teas. Vilnius is really compact and walkable so I would say it’s the perfect Christmas break if you want to stick to a weekend and you only have a night or two.
The surprising one-Switzerland
Right you may be thinking what an earth am I saying about Switzerland when all I do is bang on about budget travel……Well I am here to tell you that I actually visited a Swiss Christmas destination that was shockingly affordable. During one of my trips to Alsace, we were looking at our return flight and reached the conclusion that the airport that actually serves Alsace is the Basel airport. Now to add further to confusion, the airport is actually not in Basel Switzerland but back over the french border. Confusing I know. But us being us when I realised we would have to fly from Basel I absolutely had to visit Basel’s Christmas markets. Delightfully, I was really surprised that it actually was much more affordable than I had assumed. Mulled wine was around 4-6 euro and although it was 2 years ago when I visited the prices were pretty much the same as those in Cologne and Alsace. Barfüsserplatz and Münsterplatz are two of the main markets and offer lots of different things to try, my favourite thing was the apple fritter doughnuts which come in an edible basket and a vanilla sauce, I’m not a huge dessert person but these were 10/10 and I think of them often. You can also enjoy a classic fondue and what I like here is there are lots of cozy huts to enjoy and I loved sitting in a big ski chalet at a long table and enjoying some melted cheese. We visited 4 other smaller markets dotted across the city, one that is unique is Adväntsgass im Glaibasel which is a really quirky market on the other side of the river. You can enjoy food and drinks in ski gondolas, caravans and other cool set-ups, the prices are slightly higher but it’s a very cool experience and one is worth checking out. There is a new Christmas village called Basler Wienachtsdorf on Theaterplatz, with around 40 wooden huts opening this year too which looks gorgeous. Now, we actually got an Uber back to our accommadation which was in France due to the fact we only had a night there, wanted to be near the airport for our flight the next day and it was much cheaper at around £80 a night. Across the rest of Switzerland I would absolutely love to visit Montreux which is on next year’s Christmas tour, and you may have seen the incredible Santa flying across the city on social media.
Other European destinations to look at…. I have a big hitlist of destinations that I am yet to visit but I will obviously only be able to speak in detail about places I have spent time in however there are a couple for you to check out for yourselves
Ravenna Gorge-A sell out, ticketed market under a spectacular viaduct in Gemany’s black forest. Tickets usually sell out in minutes and I missed out again this year but I am determined to make it next year.
Dresden-Germany’s oldest market (and said to be one of the worlds oldest market). Again, I was planning this year but because of various reasons it has not worked out that way but again, I will be going next year.
Valkenburg-An underground Christmas village in the Netherlands in South Limburg, its a really unique market that is held in the caves of the city and one I am really desperate to visit.
Bruges-For me one of the most beautiful towns in Europe, I want to see if it is as beautiful at Christmas and wether the food and prices stack up to my other faves across Europe.
Craiova-One of the biggest markets in Europe, Romania is one of my favourite countries in the world and one I visit an awful lot but I haven’t managed to make it to Craiova yet, I want to see if it lives up to the hype and enjoy all of the delicious food and drink.
Where else?
This year I have 4 trips left and all are Christmas trips…..Of course me being me, on some of those I will be seeing more than one destination so here they are:
Salzburg, Hallstatt and Munich- The towns that inspired Sound of Music and Frozen? basically my dream + an incredible German market city
Paris, Disneyland & Amiens/Lille-We are undecided between Amiens and Lille so if any of you have been please let me know!
Wroclaw-I have one night in Wroclaw purely to experience a polish market which I am so excited about as I haven’t yet managed a Polish market
Riga-I love Riga, I’ve been several times but I watched a video that said the market is magical and 2 days later an overnight with my bestie was booked.
I will report back on all of these but let me know if you guys want any further tips, places to eat or want to reccomend anywhere I should try!!
